Helen: ok, looks like I spoke too soon. No big boat shaped birthday present for me. Boo hoo. We packed up all our worldly possessions (alright, I packed them, and then got in trouble from you know who for not having packed 'properly'), we shiped them over to our new boat (took two dinghy rides - we had even picked out a name for her), and then we spotted a problem that would probably involve taking the mast off (expensive in both time and money). So we were swithering about whether to buy the boat anyway, and then about 2 hours before we were due to go meet the owner to move her to take her out of the water to buy her, we ended up having tea on another boat where the owner said 'oh, for a bit more you could have bought my boat' - which is gorgeous and full of equipment and spares (and a sewing machine and a welder). We thought that was too good an opportunity to pass up so agreed to buy it there and then, went to tell the French guy that the first deal was off (you keeping up?) and then yesterday morning owners of boat number 2 said their boat was for sale...but not til Fiji. Which is too late for C. It would only make sense if we kept the boat for at least another season, as Fiji is pretty much the end of the Pacific route - the only place people go from there is Aus or NZ. So...we have to decide if we want to be serious long term live aboard cruisers or not. I'm really missing having a base, but C says he wants a motorbike shaped adventure soon instead...
But, besides all this, now we're off Nomad (yey!) our immediate problem is getting a god damn bond to prove to the immigration people that we will leave when our visa is up. Not a problem when you're on a boat, but now that we're land lubbers for a while, it's a problem. And the bank won't take our money. So we called our bank in the UK and have been fighting with admistrative morons ever since. Looks like we'll have to buy plane tickets instead, which is expensive cos they don't refund the tax you have to pay. ARRRGGGGHHHH. Oh well, at least we're not at work!! (I said this in the travel agents just now...realised it wasn't such a good thing to say to the poor lady still stuck at her desk).
So, we've had a roller coaster of a few days - I'm sure everyone in the marina thinks we're totally flaky as every time they see us we have a different plan! C changes his mind more frequently than he changes his pants. But, things are beginning to settle now - we're staying with our frineds on Gaviota, which is lovely, and we have several options for crewing to NZ to consider - wish we had our own boat though as I'm pretty much fed up with living on other people's schedules. Ho hum. Looks like the most likely two choices we have are crwing on a J160 (fancy luxurious fast boat) or doing a delivery on a large cat - neither of which is really that bad!!
Who knows, by next week we might be going to travel home from Tahiti by donkey and waterski. ??
Love H & Cxx
Thursday, 26 June 2008
Monday, 23 June 2008
Un grand cadeau
Helen: Well...it appears that we might have just gone and bought ourselves a boat!! She's a lovely little (and we mean little - she's only 30ft) French aluminium boat. We're taking her out of the water on Weds and, as long as there aren't any big probs (which we're not expecting) then she'll be ours!! She doesn't have much gear though, so looks like we have lots of shopping to do (and lots of begging and borrowing from other folk - we are so in debt at the karma bank just now!!). Will write more soon to keep you posted. Would be a pretty cool birthday pressie for us both though!!
H and Cxx
H and Cxx
Tuesday, 17 June 2008
The Big Smoke
Helen: Feeling v old just now - we hiked across Tahiti today and yesterday and now everything aches. Knees, feet, hips, shoulders. C only turned 30 three days ago and it already feels like we're falling apart - that's what 6 months on a boat does for your fitness! My big 30 is in less than 2 weeks - dreading it on the one hand (there was so much I wanted to do before 30....) but on the other hand, my Mummy has sent me a birthday package with Marmite in it, so it can't be all bad.
We really like Tahiti. It's big and noisy and full of people, but it has a certain charm. Once you get over the initial shock of traffic jams, sirens and industrial estates (which was a considerable shock after months on near deserted tropical islands) it's great to be back in civilisation - fast internet connections, bars (although the beer is as expensive as ever) and a real buzz about the place as everyone's gearing up for Heiva (the Polynesian version of Bastille Day - a big holiday here as it's a French territory) which is 2 weeks worth of celebrations. For C's b'day we through caution to the wind and had 3 beers, went to a traditional dance display, had steak and chips at the local kebab van and then rum and limes on Andreas' boat - C woke up with a stonking hangover the next day as we've been nearly tee-total for months now - the booze is so expensive that you just can't afford anything nice - our skipper drinks 'Chateau aux Carton' but I just can't bring myself to do it - it's worse than paint stripper. (Speaking of which, apparently you shouldn't eat Chinese produced food stuffs just now - loads of people died in C America recently becasue of Chineese produced toothpaste with antifreeze in it!!)
Right, gotta go - will write again soon
Hx
PS have to tell you about Don and Marcy - an American couple in their late 50s who are crew on another boat here - they're great and they came hiking with us yesterday. They have so many stories and are the only people we know who can drop things like 'that time when I got arrested in Venezula' or 'after I got shot the second time' into conversations! What a hoot... Hope we have stories to tell when we're all grown up...
We really like Tahiti. It's big and noisy and full of people, but it has a certain charm. Once you get over the initial shock of traffic jams, sirens and industrial estates (which was a considerable shock after months on near deserted tropical islands) it's great to be back in civilisation - fast internet connections, bars (although the beer is as expensive as ever) and a real buzz about the place as everyone's gearing up for Heiva (the Polynesian version of Bastille Day - a big holiday here as it's a French territory) which is 2 weeks worth of celebrations. For C's b'day we through caution to the wind and had 3 beers, went to a traditional dance display, had steak and chips at the local kebab van and then rum and limes on Andreas' boat - C woke up with a stonking hangover the next day as we've been nearly tee-total for months now - the booze is so expensive that you just can't afford anything nice - our skipper drinks 'Chateau aux Carton' but I just can't bring myself to do it - it's worse than paint stripper. (Speaking of which, apparently you shouldn't eat Chinese produced food stuffs just now - loads of people died in C America recently becasue of Chineese produced toothpaste with antifreeze in it!!)
Right, gotta go - will write again soon
Hx
PS have to tell you about Don and Marcy - an American couple in their late 50s who are crew on another boat here - they're great and they came hiking with us yesterday. They have so many stories and are the only people we know who can drop things like 'that time when I got arrested in Venezula' or 'after I got shot the second time' into conversations! What a hoot... Hope we have stories to tell when we're all grown up...
Monday, 9 June 2008
Rangiroa
Helen: Rangiroa is the worlds second biggest coral atoll - apparently. At the moment though, its grey and rainy instead of lush and tropical. There are lots and lots of palm trees, turquoise water in the lagoon, dolphins and white sandy beaches - but to be honest it doesnt look that much different from Scilly on a good day!
Our yacht is anchored just off a swanky hotel - the sort of place where London bankers come on honeymoon. I felt v scruffy when C and I traipsed through their reception hall with several black bags full of dirty washing the other day - Im sure thats not what the guests were expecting for their 400 quid a night!!
Weve been diving once already (there isnt much else to do!!) and saw dolphins, lots of fish and a shark - not sure I want to see them any closer though! Was v strange as we swam away from the reef to see the dolphins - first time weve been in 'the Big Blue' - easy to see how people get disoriented and cant tell which way is up... Unsurprisingly, our skipper didnt want to come diving with us - hes barely been off the boat - seems like such a shame...
Today weve hired bicycles - its a brilliant place to ride as its totally totally flat - the highest things on the island are the palm trees, which is why this was a v dangerous place to sail and navigate until the advent of GPS. You can see most islands from 20/30 miles away, but these atolls arent visible til about 3 miles...
The winds pretty strong just now which makes getting into and out of the atol through a narrow pass quite tricky - looks like well be here for a few more days - there are worse places to be stranded! Id like to visit the local vinyard - no kidding - there is a vinyard here - but C says we should wait til NZ. We did take a trip to a pearl farm though - v interesting. Oh, and we spent last night at a German film evening! C even managed to keep up with the conversation and slipped in his favourite phrase which served him well in GCSE oral exams but is a complete lie 'Ich bin einzelkind'...
OK, as ever, have to go - post office about to close. But, this connection has been better than most and we have managed to get a few more photos onto our Flickr site. Enjoy§
Lots of love
H and Cxx
PS we think its about time to move on from boat 5, so if anyone knows anyone whos looking for crew from Tahiti to NZ do let us know.....
Our yacht is anchored just off a swanky hotel - the sort of place where London bankers come on honeymoon. I felt v scruffy when C and I traipsed through their reception hall with several black bags full of dirty washing the other day - Im sure thats not what the guests were expecting for their 400 quid a night!!
Weve been diving once already (there isnt much else to do!!) and saw dolphins, lots of fish and a shark - not sure I want to see them any closer though! Was v strange as we swam away from the reef to see the dolphins - first time weve been in 'the Big Blue' - easy to see how people get disoriented and cant tell which way is up... Unsurprisingly, our skipper didnt want to come diving with us - hes barely been off the boat - seems like such a shame...
Today weve hired bicycles - its a brilliant place to ride as its totally totally flat - the highest things on the island are the palm trees, which is why this was a v dangerous place to sail and navigate until the advent of GPS. You can see most islands from 20/30 miles away, but these atolls arent visible til about 3 miles...
The winds pretty strong just now which makes getting into and out of the atol through a narrow pass quite tricky - looks like well be here for a few more days - there are worse places to be stranded! Id like to visit the local vinyard - no kidding - there is a vinyard here - but C says we should wait til NZ. We did take a trip to a pearl farm though - v interesting. Oh, and we spent last night at a German film evening! C even managed to keep up with the conversation and slipped in his favourite phrase which served him well in GCSE oral exams but is a complete lie 'Ich bin einzelkind'...
OK, as ever, have to go - post office about to close. But, this connection has been better than most and we have managed to get a few more photos onto our Flickr site. Enjoy§
Lots of love
H and Cxx
PS we think its about time to move on from boat 5, so if anyone knows anyone whos looking for crew from Tahiti to NZ do let us know.....
Tuesday, 20 May 2008
Nuku Hiva
Helen: Oh, how nice is this - an English keyboard! I spent all morning trying to use a French keyboard and got so frustrated I nearly through the computer out of the window - instead of touch typing at 60 wpm I was reduced to typing with two fingers. Add to the mix a clunky, slow internet connexion, and I think we'd be better off with no internet at all. At least if there wasn't the chance of getting on line you could just go out and enjoy the sunshine. But this way there is the possibility of communicating with the outside world so we've spent all day cooped up in the post office trying to send a few emails. Grrrrrrrrrr
But, now I've brought the laptop from the boat, and I have a Qwerty keyboard and all is well. We're on Nuku Hiva at the moment, which is the biggest of the Marquesas - it's also the least atmospheric as it's the most built up. Although, when I say 'built up', I mean by Marquesan standards. It's still ridiculously off the beaten track - I mean, the whole island, locals as well as yachties, is waiting with baited breath for the cargo ship which should arrive tomorrow, as there is no gas to be had anywhere until the next shipment gets here. And, as I said, the internet exists...but is still pretty backward - it all has to go through a satellite connexion so is horribly slow. But, it makes you think - until satellites were used for communication (1980s?) these islands probably didn't even have telephones...
Believe it or not, last Saturday was our 5th wedding anniversary. So we splashed out and went out for pizza and beer and a trip to the cinema (a converted lecture theatre). We understook pitifully little of the two films... I don't think our lack of language skills really detracted from the experience though - the films were both utter, utter rubbish - but it was fun to hang out with the locals - we were the only tourists there, and several of the kids pointed and laughed at C's hair! Apparently for a 5th anniversary you're supposed to get wooden presents, so we bought a wooden 'Tiki' - a funny looking little man with big eyes, a scary mouth and a fat pot belly!
It probably won't surprise you to learn that C has been in a grump for the last couple of days. He's been busy thinking about all the ways our trip could be more fun, and has compiled a list of all the toys he'd have on his 'fantasy boat' (a Catana 471 - a giant catamaran) - this has made him grumpy that he can't have it all NOW... He's also grumpy because he's hurt his toe (his fins rubbed a patch raw) and it won't heal in all this salt water. So I've made him put proper dressings on it and wear his wellies, both of which things make him look stupid, but will help him get better sooner.
We went provisioning yesterday - was a bit of a shock to the wallet - we decided we could live without kitchen roll til Tahiti - it was £2.50 a roll!! Stuart has started buying his own booze and biscuits which is good as he drinks/eats way more than we do - we were about 3 weeks into our pacific crossing and I offered C a chocolate biscuit - his little face lit up, as he'd only had a couple so far - but when I went to the cupboard they were all gone. We had bought 10 packets, and only had a handful ourselves - Stuart had even said he didn't like the ones we had chosen. But it appears even a biscuit he 'doesn't like' is better than no biscuit at all and he ate them all - how disappointing!!! C looked crestfallen. We think we've struck it lucky with ginger nuts though - he really doesn't seem to like those, which is lucky cos we do :)
Right, just about to be kicked out of the post office - will write again when we get to the next place - either Ua Poa in the Marquesas, or possibly Rangiroa in the Tuamotos...
Lots of love
Hx (&Cx)
But, now I've brought the laptop from the boat, and I have a Qwerty keyboard and all is well. We're on Nuku Hiva at the moment, which is the biggest of the Marquesas - it's also the least atmospheric as it's the most built up. Although, when I say 'built up', I mean by Marquesan standards. It's still ridiculously off the beaten track - I mean, the whole island, locals as well as yachties, is waiting with baited breath for the cargo ship which should arrive tomorrow, as there is no gas to be had anywhere until the next shipment gets here. And, as I said, the internet exists...but is still pretty backward - it all has to go through a satellite connexion so is horribly slow. But, it makes you think - until satellites were used for communication (1980s?) these islands probably didn't even have telephones...
Believe it or not, last Saturday was our 5th wedding anniversary. So we splashed out and went out for pizza and beer and a trip to the cinema (a converted lecture theatre). We understook pitifully little of the two films... I don't think our lack of language skills really detracted from the experience though - the films were both utter, utter rubbish - but it was fun to hang out with the locals - we were the only tourists there, and several of the kids pointed and laughed at C's hair! Apparently for a 5th anniversary you're supposed to get wooden presents, so we bought a wooden 'Tiki' - a funny looking little man with big eyes, a scary mouth and a fat pot belly!
It probably won't surprise you to learn that C has been in a grump for the last couple of days. He's been busy thinking about all the ways our trip could be more fun, and has compiled a list of all the toys he'd have on his 'fantasy boat' (a Catana 471 - a giant catamaran) - this has made him grumpy that he can't have it all NOW... He's also grumpy because he's hurt his toe (his fins rubbed a patch raw) and it won't heal in all this salt water. So I've made him put proper dressings on it and wear his wellies, both of which things make him look stupid, but will help him get better sooner.
We went provisioning yesterday - was a bit of a shock to the wallet - we decided we could live without kitchen roll til Tahiti - it was £2.50 a roll!! Stuart has started buying his own booze and biscuits which is good as he drinks/eats way more than we do - we were about 3 weeks into our pacific crossing and I offered C a chocolate biscuit - his little face lit up, as he'd only had a couple so far - but when I went to the cupboard they were all gone. We had bought 10 packets, and only had a handful ourselves - Stuart had even said he didn't like the ones we had chosen. But it appears even a biscuit he 'doesn't like' is better than no biscuit at all and he ate them all - how disappointing!!! C looked crestfallen. We think we've struck it lucky with ginger nuts though - he really doesn't seem to like those, which is lucky cos we do :)
Right, just about to be kicked out of the post office - will write again when we get to the next place - either Ua Poa in the Marquesas, or possibly Rangiroa in the Tuamotos...
Lots of love
Hx (&Cx)
Friday, 16 May 2008
Heading for Ua Pua
Position: 09 Deg 54 Mins South, 139 Deg 07 Mins West
We've had a great time on Tahuata, mainly because we met a really nice couple from Santa Barbera called Jaimie and Brandon on a boat called Gaviotta (Seagull). They came over yesterday morning with some of the huge Wahoo that they caught as they couldn't eat it all, we went snorkelling with them in the bays around the anchorage and then we had drinks on their boat in the evening. Helen's getting over her fear of swimming and was diving down to look at all the colourful little fishies on the reef. Today we walked with them through the jungle (full of mangoes, bananas and limes) all the way to the village, it took about 4 hours. Thankfully when we got there we found a local boat to take us back to the anchorage.
All the islands are beautiful, the sea is clear, the fishies are abundant and the locals are friendly - when we arrived in the village today, the shop had no bread, but I spotted a lady by the quay with a big bag of baguettes, I asked her if she was selling them, and she said no, but I could have some anyway and gave us 3 to take back to the boat!
Charlie fixed the engine while we were here too, we were having to go into the engine bay and short the solenoid contacts with a screwdriver, til I found the problem with the wiring to the start relay. All that tinkering with Kermit's starter over the years is paying off!
We've had a great time on Tahuata, mainly because we met a really nice couple from Santa Barbera called Jaimie and Brandon on a boat called Gaviotta (Seagull). They came over yesterday morning with some of the huge Wahoo that they caught as they couldn't eat it all, we went snorkelling with them in the bays around the anchorage and then we had drinks on their boat in the evening. Helen's getting over her fear of swimming and was diving down to look at all the colourful little fishies on the reef. Today we walked with them through the jungle (full of mangoes, bananas and limes) all the way to the village, it took about 4 hours. Thankfully when we got there we found a local boat to take us back to the anchorage.
All the islands are beautiful, the sea is clear, the fishies are abundant and the locals are friendly - when we arrived in the village today, the shop had no bread, but I spotted a lady by the quay with a big bag of baguettes, I asked her if she was selling them, and she said no, but I could have some anyway and gave us 3 to take back to the boat!
Charlie fixed the engine while we were here too, we were having to go into the engine bay and short the solenoid contacts with a screwdriver, til I found the problem with the wiring to the start relay. All that tinkering with Kermit's starter over the years is paying off!
Sunday, 11 May 2008
La Vie Francaise
Nous aimons bien Hiva Oa. C'est tres jolie, les gents sont tres gentils et le dejeuner c'est magnifique - pain francais, fromage (Brie!), saucisson et Orangina. :) Actually, it's a good thing we like simple French style picnic lunches, as we went out for lunch the other day and it nearly bankrupted us. £45/50 for a, not particularly inspiring or substantial, meal for 3. Not even any wine or beer. C'est trop trop cher ici. So, we've been trying to do things on the cheap...but it's not easy. We managed a trek through the jungle to see petroglyphs (scrawls on rocks according to C) by ourselves (for free) and we visited the cemetery where Gauguin is buried...but that's about it. Everything else costs.
Today we went for another trek in the jungle with Alain our guide - was expensive, but well worth it - there are so many archaeological sites in the forest that you'd never see by yourself it's so overgrown. We learnt all about 'Tikis' (carved rocks with stylised human faces that represent deified ancestors) and the sacred sites where you find them (which bits are 'Tapu' (taboo) and which bits are public). Alain also told us about all the plants - the breadfruit tree and the giant hibiscus have both been v v important to the Polynesian people - used for food, rope, house building, medicine, canoes, decoration. All sorts. They've also got cashews, coffee, papaya, mangoes and more here - it's so lush - every time I look out the window I must be able to see about 10 different shades of green. Alain took us to his house in the mountains - v v simple - water from a well he dug himself, legumes from the garden, horses to carry stuff, outside salle de bain. Think it might have been a bit too much like the Good Life even for me! It's a shame though - he said that he's the exception and not many other people grow their own food - in fact he says the Marquesans (he's an import from Paris) are gradually eating themselves out of house and home - there used to be lots of cows on the island...til they ate them all...and now they're working their way through the horses (learnt the difference between 'chevaux' and 'cheveux' today - got an impromptu French lesson from Alain as he didn't speak much English - my brain hurts now from concentrating so hard!)
Final anecdote for you: Alain told us about an American tourist who stole one of the Tiki a few years ago - when he got home his wife died and his house burned down - his bad luck didn't stop til he returned the Tiki to Hiva Oa...
Tomorrow we're off for the next island - thankfully only a few hours away. C spent the whole day yesterday filling us up with water - 450 litres which equates to 4 runs in our little dinghy hefting 20 and 30 litre jerry cans around. V tiring and one of the things that you lot at home probably don't appreciate about our trip - it's not all gin and tonics and adventures - it can take a couple of days just to fill up with fuel and water and go shopping!!
Right, time to go - Alain gave us some fresh avocados from his garden and Stuart is making supper...
Lots of love H&Cxx
Today we went for another trek in the jungle with Alain our guide - was expensive, but well worth it - there are so many archaeological sites in the forest that you'd never see by yourself it's so overgrown. We learnt all about 'Tikis' (carved rocks with stylised human faces that represent deified ancestors) and the sacred sites where you find them (which bits are 'Tapu' (taboo) and which bits are public). Alain also told us about all the plants - the breadfruit tree and the giant hibiscus have both been v v important to the Polynesian people - used for food, rope, house building, medicine, canoes, decoration. All sorts. They've also got cashews, coffee, papaya, mangoes and more here - it's so lush - every time I look out the window I must be able to see about 10 different shades of green. Alain took us to his house in the mountains - v v simple - water from a well he dug himself, legumes from the garden, horses to carry stuff, outside salle de bain. Think it might have been a bit too much like the Good Life even for me! It's a shame though - he said that he's the exception and not many other people grow their own food - in fact he says the Marquesans (he's an import from Paris) are gradually eating themselves out of house and home - there used to be lots of cows on the island...til they ate them all...and now they're working their way through the horses (learnt the difference between 'chevaux' and 'cheveux' today - got an impromptu French lesson from Alain as he didn't speak much English - my brain hurts now from concentrating so hard!)
Final anecdote for you: Alain told us about an American tourist who stole one of the Tiki a few years ago - when he got home his wife died and his house burned down - his bad luck didn't stop til he returned the Tiki to Hiva Oa...
Tomorrow we're off for the next island - thankfully only a few hours away. C spent the whole day yesterday filling us up with water - 450 litres which equates to 4 runs in our little dinghy hefting 20 and 30 litre jerry cans around. V tiring and one of the things that you lot at home probably don't appreciate about our trip - it's not all gin and tonics and adventures - it can take a couple of days just to fill up with fuel and water and go shopping!!
Right, time to go - Alain gave us some fresh avocados from his garden and Stuart is making supper...
Lots of love H&Cxx
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)