Nuku Hiva

Helen: Oh, how nice is this - an English keyboard! I spent all morning trying to use a French keyboard and got so frustrated I nearly through the computer out of the window - instead of touch typing at 60 wpm I was reduced to typing with two fingers. Add to the mix a clunky, slow internet connexion, and I think we'd be better off with no internet at all. At least if there wasn't the chance of getting on line you could just go out and enjoy the sunshine. But this way there is the possibility of communicating with the outside world so we've spent all day cooped up in the post office trying to send a few emails. Grrrrrrrrrr

But, now I've brought the laptop from the boat, and I have a Qwerty keyboard and all is well. We're on Nuku Hiva at the moment, which is the biggest of the Marquesas - it's also the least atmospheric as it's the most built up. Although, when I say 'built up', I mean by Marquesan standards. It's still ridiculously off the beaten track - I mean, the whole island, locals as well as yachties, is waiting with baited breath for the cargo ship which should arrive tomorrow, as there is no gas to be had anywhere until the next shipment gets here. And, as I said, the internet exists...but is still pretty backward - it all has to go through a satellite connexion so is horribly slow. But, it makes you think - until satellites were used for communication (1980s?) these islands probably didn't even have telephones...

Believe it or not, last Saturday was our 5th wedding anniversary. So we splashed out and went out for pizza and beer and a trip to the cinema (a converted lecture theatre). We understook pitifully little of the two films... I don't think our lack of language skills really detracted from the experience though - the films were both utter, utter rubbish - but it was fun to hang out with the locals - we were the only tourists there, and several of the kids pointed and laughed at C's hair! Apparently for a 5th anniversary you're supposed to get wooden presents, so we bought a wooden 'Tiki' - a funny looking little man with big eyes, a scary mouth and a fat pot belly!

It probably won't surprise you to learn that C has been in a grump for the last couple of days. He's been busy thinking about all the ways our trip could be more fun, and has compiled a list of all the toys he'd have on his 'fantasy boat' (a Catana 471 - a giant catamaran) - this has made him grumpy that he can't have it all NOW... He's also grumpy because he's hurt his toe (his fins rubbed a patch raw) and it won't heal in all this salt water. So I've made him put proper dressings on it and wear his wellies, both of which things make him look stupid, but will help him get better sooner.

We went provisioning yesterday - was a bit of a shock to the wallet - we decided we could live without kitchen roll til Tahiti - it was £2.50 a roll!! Stuart has started buying his own booze and biscuits which is good as he drinks/eats way more than we do - we were about 3 weeks into our pacific crossing and I offered C a chocolate biscuit - his little face lit up, as he'd only had a couple so far - but when I went to the cupboard they were all gone. We had bought 10 packets, and only had a handful ourselves - Stuart had even said he didn't like the ones we had chosen. But it appears even a biscuit he 'doesn't like' is better than no biscuit at all and he ate them all - how disappointing!!! C looked crestfallen. We think we've struck it lucky with ginger nuts though - he really doesn't seem to like those, which is lucky cos we do :)

Right, just about to be kicked out of the post office - will write again when we get to the next place - either Ua Poa in the Marquesas, or possibly Rangiroa in the Tuamotos...

Lots of love
Hx (&Cx)