Helen: Oh, how nice is this - an English keyboard! I spent all morning trying to use a French keyboard and got so frustrated I nearly through the computer out of the window - instead of touch typing at 60 wpm I was reduced to typing with two fingers. Add to the mix a clunky, slow internet connexion, and I think we'd be better off with no internet at all. At least if there wasn't the chance of getting on line you could just go out and enjoy the sunshine. But this way there is the possibility of communicating with the outside world so we've spent all day cooped up in the post office trying to send a few emails. Grrrrrrrrrr
But, now I've brought the laptop from the boat, and I have a Qwerty keyboard and all is well. We're on Nuku Hiva at the moment, which is the biggest of the Marquesas - it's also the least atmospheric as it's the most built up. Although, when I say 'built up', I mean by Marquesan standards. It's still ridiculously off the beaten track - I mean, the whole island, locals as well as yachties, is waiting with baited breath for the cargo ship which should arrive tomorrow, as there is no gas to be had anywhere until the next shipment gets here. And, as I said, the internet exists...but is still pretty backward - it all has to go through a satellite connexion so is horribly slow. But, it makes you think - until satellites were used for communication (1980s?) these islands probably didn't even have telephones...
Believe it or not, last Saturday was our 5th wedding anniversary. So we splashed out and went out for pizza and beer and a trip to the cinema (a converted lecture theatre). We understook pitifully little of the two films... I don't think our lack of language skills really detracted from the experience though - the films were both utter, utter rubbish - but it was fun to hang out with the locals - we were the only tourists there, and several of the kids pointed and laughed at C's hair! Apparently for a 5th anniversary you're supposed to get wooden presents, so we bought a wooden 'Tiki' - a funny looking little man with big eyes, a scary mouth and a fat pot belly!
It probably won't surprise you to learn that C has been in a grump for the last couple of days. He's been busy thinking about all the ways our trip could be more fun, and has compiled a list of all the toys he'd have on his 'fantasy boat' (a Catana 471 - a giant catamaran) - this has made him grumpy that he can't have it all NOW... He's also grumpy because he's hurt his toe (his fins rubbed a patch raw) and it won't heal in all this salt water. So I've made him put proper dressings on it and wear his wellies, both of which things make him look stupid, but will help him get better sooner.
We went provisioning yesterday - was a bit of a shock to the wallet - we decided we could live without kitchen roll til Tahiti - it was £2.50 a roll!! Stuart has started buying his own booze and biscuits which is good as he drinks/eats way more than we do - we were about 3 weeks into our pacific crossing and I offered C a chocolate biscuit - his little face lit up, as he'd only had a couple so far - but when I went to the cupboard they were all gone. We had bought 10 packets, and only had a handful ourselves - Stuart had even said he didn't like the ones we had chosen. But it appears even a biscuit he 'doesn't like' is better than no biscuit at all and he ate them all - how disappointing!!! C looked crestfallen. We think we've struck it lucky with ginger nuts though - he really doesn't seem to like those, which is lucky cos we do :)
Right, just about to be kicked out of the post office - will write again when we get to the next place - either Ua Poa in the Marquesas, or possibly Rangiroa in the Tuamotos...
Lots of love
Hx (&Cx)
Tuesday 20 May 2008
Friday 16 May 2008
Heading for Ua Pua
Position: 09 Deg 54 Mins South, 139 Deg 07 Mins West
We've had a great time on Tahuata, mainly because we met a really nice couple from Santa Barbera called Jaimie and Brandon on a boat called Gaviotta (Seagull). They came over yesterday morning with some of the huge Wahoo that they caught as they couldn't eat it all, we went snorkelling with them in the bays around the anchorage and then we had drinks on their boat in the evening. Helen's getting over her fear of swimming and was diving down to look at all the colourful little fishies on the reef. Today we walked with them through the jungle (full of mangoes, bananas and limes) all the way to the village, it took about 4 hours. Thankfully when we got there we found a local boat to take us back to the anchorage.
All the islands are beautiful, the sea is clear, the fishies are abundant and the locals are friendly - when we arrived in the village today, the shop had no bread, but I spotted a lady by the quay with a big bag of baguettes, I asked her if she was selling them, and she said no, but I could have some anyway and gave us 3 to take back to the boat!
Charlie fixed the engine while we were here too, we were having to go into the engine bay and short the solenoid contacts with a screwdriver, til I found the problem with the wiring to the start relay. All that tinkering with Kermit's starter over the years is paying off!
We've had a great time on Tahuata, mainly because we met a really nice couple from Santa Barbera called Jaimie and Brandon on a boat called Gaviotta (Seagull). They came over yesterday morning with some of the huge Wahoo that they caught as they couldn't eat it all, we went snorkelling with them in the bays around the anchorage and then we had drinks on their boat in the evening. Helen's getting over her fear of swimming and was diving down to look at all the colourful little fishies on the reef. Today we walked with them through the jungle (full of mangoes, bananas and limes) all the way to the village, it took about 4 hours. Thankfully when we got there we found a local boat to take us back to the anchorage.
All the islands are beautiful, the sea is clear, the fishies are abundant and the locals are friendly - when we arrived in the village today, the shop had no bread, but I spotted a lady by the quay with a big bag of baguettes, I asked her if she was selling them, and she said no, but I could have some anyway and gave us 3 to take back to the boat!
Charlie fixed the engine while we were here too, we were having to go into the engine bay and short the solenoid contacts with a screwdriver, til I found the problem with the wiring to the start relay. All that tinkering with Kermit's starter over the years is paying off!
Sunday 11 May 2008
La Vie Francaise
Nous aimons bien Hiva Oa. C'est tres jolie, les gents sont tres gentils et le dejeuner c'est magnifique - pain francais, fromage (Brie!), saucisson et Orangina. :) Actually, it's a good thing we like simple French style picnic lunches, as we went out for lunch the other day and it nearly bankrupted us. £45/50 for a, not particularly inspiring or substantial, meal for 3. Not even any wine or beer. C'est trop trop cher ici. So, we've been trying to do things on the cheap...but it's not easy. We managed a trek through the jungle to see petroglyphs (scrawls on rocks according to C) by ourselves (for free) and we visited the cemetery where Gauguin is buried...but that's about it. Everything else costs.
Today we went for another trek in the jungle with Alain our guide - was expensive, but well worth it - there are so many archaeological sites in the forest that you'd never see by yourself it's so overgrown. We learnt all about 'Tikis' (carved rocks with stylised human faces that represent deified ancestors) and the sacred sites where you find them (which bits are 'Tapu' (taboo) and which bits are public). Alain also told us about all the plants - the breadfruit tree and the giant hibiscus have both been v v important to the Polynesian people - used for food, rope, house building, medicine, canoes, decoration. All sorts. They've also got cashews, coffee, papaya, mangoes and more here - it's so lush - every time I look out the window I must be able to see about 10 different shades of green. Alain took us to his house in the mountains - v v simple - water from a well he dug himself, legumes from the garden, horses to carry stuff, outside salle de bain. Think it might have been a bit too much like the Good Life even for me! It's a shame though - he said that he's the exception and not many other people grow their own food - in fact he says the Marquesans (he's an import from Paris) are gradually eating themselves out of house and home - there used to be lots of cows on the island...til they ate them all...and now they're working their way through the horses (learnt the difference between 'chevaux' and 'cheveux' today - got an impromptu French lesson from Alain as he didn't speak much English - my brain hurts now from concentrating so hard!)
Final anecdote for you: Alain told us about an American tourist who stole one of the Tiki a few years ago - when he got home his wife died and his house burned down - his bad luck didn't stop til he returned the Tiki to Hiva Oa...
Tomorrow we're off for the next island - thankfully only a few hours away. C spent the whole day yesterday filling us up with water - 450 litres which equates to 4 runs in our little dinghy hefting 20 and 30 litre jerry cans around. V tiring and one of the things that you lot at home probably don't appreciate about our trip - it's not all gin and tonics and adventures - it can take a couple of days just to fill up with fuel and water and go shopping!!
Right, time to go - Alain gave us some fresh avocados from his garden and Stuart is making supper...
Lots of love H&Cxx
Today we went for another trek in the jungle with Alain our guide - was expensive, but well worth it - there are so many archaeological sites in the forest that you'd never see by yourself it's so overgrown. We learnt all about 'Tikis' (carved rocks with stylised human faces that represent deified ancestors) and the sacred sites where you find them (which bits are 'Tapu' (taboo) and which bits are public). Alain also told us about all the plants - the breadfruit tree and the giant hibiscus have both been v v important to the Polynesian people - used for food, rope, house building, medicine, canoes, decoration. All sorts. They've also got cashews, coffee, papaya, mangoes and more here - it's so lush - every time I look out the window I must be able to see about 10 different shades of green. Alain took us to his house in the mountains - v v simple - water from a well he dug himself, legumes from the garden, horses to carry stuff, outside salle de bain. Think it might have been a bit too much like the Good Life even for me! It's a shame though - he said that he's the exception and not many other people grow their own food - in fact he says the Marquesans (he's an import from Paris) are gradually eating themselves out of house and home - there used to be lots of cows on the island...til they ate them all...and now they're working their way through the horses (learnt the difference between 'chevaux' and 'cheveux' today - got an impromptu French lesson from Alain as he didn't speak much English - my brain hurts now from concentrating so hard!)
Final anecdote for you: Alain told us about an American tourist who stole one of the Tiki a few years ago - when he got home his wife died and his house burned down - his bad luck didn't stop til he returned the Tiki to Hiva Oa...
Tomorrow we're off for the next island - thankfully only a few hours away. C spent the whole day yesterday filling us up with water - 450 litres which equates to 4 runs in our little dinghy hefting 20 and 30 litre jerry cans around. V tiring and one of the things that you lot at home probably don't appreciate about our trip - it's not all gin and tonics and adventures - it can take a couple of days just to fill up with fuel and water and go shopping!!
Right, time to go - Alain gave us some fresh avocados from his garden and Stuart is making supper...
Lots of love H&Cxx
Monday 5 May 2008
Land...at last!
Current Position: 09 Deg 48 Mins South, 139 Deg 01 Mins West.
We're now anchored in Tahauku Bay on Hiva Oa. It's so nice not to be rolling around. We had a total nightmare when we arrived in Fatu Hiva yesterday evening as it's very steeply shelving and very crowded (what are all these people doing in our island paradise?). After 26 days of sailing we tried and failed to anchor 4 times in the Bay of Virgins before we gave up and decided to sail through another night to get to Hiva Oa. At that moment, the heavens opened, the mainsail wouldn't go up (caught on the lazy jacks), the engine starter circuit failed and the stern toilet stopped working (flooded would be a more accurate description). That was definitely the low-point of our Pacific trip. Reminiscent of our non-arrival in Rodney Bay after the Atlantic crossing. What an anticlimax. That gin and tonic we'd been looking forward to was not to be. Had to haul ourselves up for yet another night watch instead and we sailed through the night to anchor up in Hiva Oa. But...it was worth it. We've just been ashore, wandered into town and watched a football match with the locals (in our best French - v confusing after speaking so much Spanish). We chatted with them, and got some money out. We have both now had showers - H has clean hair, and C is no longer visibly grubby - honestly - he was dirtiest he's ever been - he'd reached 'dirt saturation point' and the dirt was just sitting on his skin (all in the interests of saving water you understand...) Tomorrow, we're going to get all our laundry done - mmmmmmmm clean us and clean sheets! Fatu Hiva and Hiva Oa are outstandingly beautiful, we've taken lots of pixtures so you can see. It's a bit like the Lake District, except it's really sunny and warm, and at the foot of the mountains is the sea. Got an appointment tomorrow to see a man about some ink, and plans to go and see lots of archaeological sites/mountain climbing. But, for now, think we're going to relax and have another GnT and watch the Life of Brian with popcorn. And then sleep. A lot.
C&H xx
We're now anchored in Tahauku Bay on Hiva Oa. It's so nice not to be rolling around. We had a total nightmare when we arrived in Fatu Hiva yesterday evening as it's very steeply shelving and very crowded (what are all these people doing in our island paradise?). After 26 days of sailing we tried and failed to anchor 4 times in the Bay of Virgins before we gave up and decided to sail through another night to get to Hiva Oa. At that moment, the heavens opened, the mainsail wouldn't go up (caught on the lazy jacks), the engine starter circuit failed and the stern toilet stopped working (flooded would be a more accurate description). That was definitely the low-point of our Pacific trip. Reminiscent of our non-arrival in Rodney Bay after the Atlantic crossing. What an anticlimax. That gin and tonic we'd been looking forward to was not to be. Had to haul ourselves up for yet another night watch instead and we sailed through the night to anchor up in Hiva Oa. But...it was worth it. We've just been ashore, wandered into town and watched a football match with the locals (in our best French - v confusing after speaking so much Spanish). We chatted with them, and got some money out. We have both now had showers - H has clean hair, and C is no longer visibly grubby - honestly - he was dirtiest he's ever been - he'd reached 'dirt saturation point' and the dirt was just sitting on his skin (all in the interests of saving water you understand...) Tomorrow, we're going to get all our laundry done - mmmmmmmm clean us and clean sheets! Fatu Hiva and Hiva Oa are outstandingly beautiful, we've taken lots of pixtures so you can see. It's a bit like the Lake District, except it's really sunny and warm, and at the foot of the mountains is the sea. Got an appointment tomorrow to see a man about some ink, and plans to go and see lots of archaeological sites/mountain climbing. But, for now, think we're going to relax and have another GnT and watch the Life of Brian with popcorn. And then sleep. A lot.
C&H xx
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)